Lisbon’s gentle way of life
immersion in the white city
Houses covered in azulejos cascade down Lisbon’s seven hills… welcome to the city!
As soon as you set foot in the White City, you’re drawn to its wonderfully laid-back atmosphere, that gentle rhythm of life, steeped in generosity and a touch of bohemian nonchalance. It’s easy to lose yourself in the winding, history-filled alleyways of this colorful city, wandering in search of the most beautiful azulejo façades, those glazed ceramic tiles whose tradition dates back to the time of Arab influence.
One of the best ways to explore Lisbon is aboard Tram 28, an authentic 1930s tram that winds its way through the city’s most picturesque neighborhoods: Graca, Alfama, Baixa, and Estrela. Although a little worn out, the tram is a true icon and glides down the city’s hills to the delight of visitors. For a seat, it’s best to board early at the Martim Moniz stop.
Lisbon's warm and welcoming locals give the city the feel of a large village, here, life is truly celebrated. The countless cafés, restaurants, and small designer boutiques play an active role in the city’s cultural and economic revival. It’s especially in the historic Bairro Alto district, one of the oldest in Lisbon, that the nightlife comes alive! At lunchtime, you’ll find “tascas”, charming little Lisbon taverns, serving simple, affordable meals perfect for a quick bite.
In recent years, the city’s food scene has been reinventing itself. A new culinary energy is taking hold, with more and more chefs breathing new life into Portuguese cuisine by showcasing exceptional local ingredients. Facing the Atlantic, Lisbon is a paradise for fresh fish and seafood lovers.
Far from the hustle and bustle of the city center, Belém offers a breath of fresh air along the banks of the Tagus River. A true urban escape, this area feels like a bubble of oxygen within the city. Over 20 kilometers of paths, restaurants, and bars line the waterfront. It’s also along the Tagus that you’ll find the striking MAAT — Museum of Art, Architecture, and Technology, a futuristic building inaugurated in 2016 with a cutting-edge program.
And if the call of the ocean becomes irresistible, you can take a 45-minute train ride to the stunning seaside towns of Cascais, Estoril, or Sintra for a perfect day trip.
Alfama, the soul of Lisbon
In Lisbon, some neighborhoods are meant to be crossed, others to be explored slowly. Alfama belongs to the latter.
Here, time seems to stand still, between steep alleyways, tiled façades, and laundry dancing in the wind. It's a maze of tiny squares and winding staircases, where every corner reveals a detail that captures the soul of the city.
As the historical heart of Lisbon, Alfama is one of the few neighborhoods that survived the devastating 1755 earthquake. Its medieval layout, inherited from the Moors, remains untouched, offering a fascinating labyrinth for those who wander through it. You have to get lost to truly feel its magic : hear fado spilling out of a tavern, watch locals chatting on their doorsteps, take in the views from a miradouro opening onto the Tagus River.
At the top of the district, São Jorge Castle stands guard over the city, a silent witness to centuries past. Below, the Sé, Lisbon’s imposing Romanesque cathedral, anchors the area in history. Between the two, Alfama unfolds its cobbled streets, where charm awaits with every step.
Far from the bustle of the main avenues, Alfama has preserved a unique atmosphere. There are no straight lines or pre-mapped paths here. You move at the pace of discovery, step by step, guided by the soul of Lisbon.
TO VISIT
Lisbon must-sees
Jerónimos Monastery
A magnificent monastery built in the early 16th century, it is one of the finest examples of Manueline architecture, a style celebrating the sea and the great discoveries following Vasco da Gama’s return from India. The cloister is a true masterpiece.
Located at Praça do Império, 1400-206 Lisboa.
Maritime Museum
Situated next to the monastery, this fascinating museum is dedicated to the history of the navy and shipbuilding in Portugal.
Located at Praça do Império, 1400-206 Lisboa.
Belém Tower
Originally built to defend the city, this work by Francisco de Arruda stands on the banks of the Tagus River, close to the Jerónimos Monastery.
Located at Av. Brasília, 1400-038 Lisboa.
Museum of Decorative Arts
Housed in the former 17th-century palace of the Counts of Azurara, this museum features several intimate rooms decorated with azulejos and frescoes. The important collection includes Portuguese and Indo-Portuguese furniture, silverware, Chinese porcelain, and tapestries.
Located at Largo das Portas do Sol, 2, 1100 Lisboa.
Tram 28
Take line 28 to explore the city, really fun and beautiful !
Other slightly offbeat tours
Santa Luzia Viewpoint
A charming square arranged as a viewpoint over the remains of the old Moorish fortifications. It offers a beautiful view of the Tagus River, the port, and the rooftops of Alfama.
Largo Santa Luzia, 1100-487 Lisboa
Tile Museum (Museu Nacional do Azulejo)
Located in the former Madre De Deus monastery, the museum showcases an impressive collection of azulejos. Visitors can admire a stunning 23-meter panel dating from 1735 (pre-earthquake).
Rua Madre Deus 4, 1900-312 Lisboa
Monastery of São Vicente de Fora
Right next to the church of the same name, the Monastery of São Vicente de Fora is an architectural gem. It houses a magnificent collection of Baroque-style azulejo panels still in their original locations. The church terrace offers a panoramic view of the Tagus River and the rooftops of Alfama.
Largo de São Vicente, 1100-572 Lisboa
Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology (MAAT)
Located on the banks of the Tagus River in the Belém district, this museum designed by Amanda Levete Architects explores current themes and trends with contributions from contemporary artists, architects, and thinkers.
Av. Brasília, Central Tejo 1300-598 Lisboa
Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation
This modern architecture museum houses the incredible collection of businessman Calouste Gulbenkian, who devoted his fortune to art. The collection spans from Antiquity to the early 20th century and ranks among the best in the world. The museum is surrounded by a beautiful public garden. Admission is free every Sunday after 2 p.m.
Av. de Berna 45 A, 1067-001 Lisboa
Palácio dos Marqueses de Fronteira and its Gardens
Away from Lisbon’s typical tourist routes, in the Benfica district, this still-inhabited palace of the Marqueses de Fronteira is famous for its rococo architecture, beautiful azulejos, and grand Renaissance-style gardens. Visits to the palace and gardens are only possible at specific times. See the official website for details.
Rua São Domingos de Benfica, 1, 1500-554 Lisboa
Ajuda Botanical Garden
Spanning 4 hectares, this is Lisbon’s first botanical garden. Founded in 1768, the beautiful romantic and peaceful park is inspired by Renaissance gardens. It features a fine collection of exotic plants. Admission fee: 2 euros.
Calçada da Ajuda, 1300-011 Lisboa
Estufa Fria Botanical Garden
An impressive botanical garden composed of three greenhouses. Visitors can admire a magnificent collection of tropical plants, small lakes, waterfalls, and statues by various artists.
Parque Eduardo VII, 1070-051 Lisboa
food in lisbon
BREAKFAST / caféS / pASTRIES
Pastelaria Orion
Located in Bairro Alto, this Lisbon café is ideal for enjoying an affordable Portuguese breakfast before exploring the city. The setting is authentic and the staff are lovely.
Calçada do Combro 1, 1200-086 Lisboa
Pastéis de Belém
At the Antiga Confeitaria de Belém, locals come to enjoy the best pastel de nata in the city, a small custard tart filled with a silky egg cream typical of Portuguese cuisine. The recipe here has remained unchanged since 1837, served warm at exactly 50°C and sprinkled with powdered sugar and cinnamon.
Rua de Belém No 84 a 92, Lisbon 1300-085 Lisboa
Pastelaria Alfama Doce
This charming old-fashioned spot makes delicious Portuguese pastries, which can be enjoyed on-site with a coffee (or “bica”) and freshly squeezed orange juice. The pastéis de nata, the house specialty, are excellent.
Rua da Regueira 39, 1100-219 Lisboa
Pastelaria Cristal
Pastelaria Cristal is one of the best pastry shops in the city. They serve incredible pastéis de nata as well as viennoiseries and good coffee.
R. de Buenos Aires 25, 1200-798 Lisboa
A Brasileira
With its Art Deco interior featuring wood paneling and mirrors, this is one of Lisbon’s most famous cafés alongside Café Martinho da Arcada. Very popular with tourists, A Brasileira remains a historic establishment rich in political, literary, and artistic stories. People mainly come here to have a coffee and soak up the place’s historical significance.
Royal Regalia Chiado, 1200-205 Lisboa
Some Restaurants / Bars
A Tendinha do Rossio
Ideally located in Bairro Alto, this popular spot, or tasca, offers Portuguese specialties such as chickpea soup, bifanas (pork sandwiches), and petiscos (snacks) like Pastel de Bacalhau (codfish cake) or shrimp croquettes. These dishes can be enjoyed with beer or the house red wine.
Praça Dom Pedro IV 6, 1100-200 Lisboa
Pérola do Tejo
A small authentic restaurant in Chiado, perfect for enjoying grilled sardines or other specialties on the terrace.
Rua do Arsenal 158, 1200-182 Lisboa
Agua de Beber
Not far from Mercado de Ribeira, this small neighborhood bar is often full but has a fantastic atmosphere, with live music performances.
Travessa São Paulo 8, 1200-431 Lisboa
Casa Independente
Located in a former mansion in Intendente, one of Lisbon’s favorite youth neighborhood, Casa Independente used to be a Grémio, a cooperative where people gathered to have a drink and discuss art and politics. The venue revives this cultural past by hosting artists, concerts, exhibitions (and even private events), all while enjoying a drink on its beautiful terrace. The place has kept all its old-world charm.
Largo do Intendente Pina Manique 45, 1100-285 Lisboa
Ramiro
This seafood restaurant is a Lisbon institution, so be prepared to wait in line for a table, it’s all part of the experience! The décor is simple and a bit old-fashioned. You’ll notice the crustacean mural at the back and the paper tablecloths decorated accordingly… Isn’t that what we come for? Once seated, you’ll be delighted to feast on incredibly fresh seafood: goose barnacles, razor clams, crabs, cockles, shrimp, langoustines, all served with garlic butter toasted bread and cold beer.
Av. Alm. Reis 1, 1150-038 Lisboa
Ponto Final
Located in Cacilhas, in the former docks area of Almada, this restaurant’s terrace offers a fantastic view of the Tagus River and the 25 de Abril Bridge. It serves simple, traditional cuisine (specialties on weekends). Perfect for a sunset, this popular spot requires booking in advance.
R. do Ginjal 72, 2800-285 Almada
BOUTIQUES / mARkets
A Carioca / Since 1936 in the Chiado district, you are drawn in by the delicious smell of coffee coming from the A Carioca roastery, an Art Deco jewel where coffee beans with intense aromas are roasted and blended, sourced from Indonesia, South America, Brazil, and Africa including the Cape Verde Islands and São Tomé and Príncipe. You can also buy excellent chocolate or teas from the Azores, Mozambique, and beyond. R. da Misericórdia 9, 1200-208 Lisboa
A Vida Portuguesa / Created by a former journalist, A Vida Portuguesa is a must-visit shop in Lisbon dedicated to Portuguese art and craftsmanship. You’ll find a wonderful selection of decorative objects, cosmetics, toys, linens, ceramics, canned goods... The Intendente shop, located in a former tile factory, is definitely worth a visit. Largo do Intendente Pina Manique 23, 1100-285 Lisboa, other shops here
Campo de Ourique Market / One of Lisbon’s oldest markets (since 1934), located in the northwest of the city. Since its renovation and modernization in 2013, you can eat on-site at one of its many “tasquinhas”, small stalls offering seafood, cold cuts, empadas… R. Coelho da Rocha 104, 1350-075 Lisboa
Manteigaria Silva / Since 1908, this Baixa neighborhood grocery offers an excellent selection of fine Portuguese products: sliced hams, codfish, cheeses, olives, canned goods, good wines… a must-visit for food lovers. Rua D. Antão de Almada 1 C e D, 1100-197 Lisboa
Conserveira de Lisboa / An institution in Lisbon. Since 1930, this family-run cannery markets a great variety of fish (sardines, mackerel, tuna, eel, cod, anchovies, squid…) under its flagship brands Tricana, Minor, and Prata do Mar, all packed in pretty retro-style tins with impeccable quality. Rua dos Bacalhoeiros 34, 1100-321 Lisboa
Stroll in Cacilhas
Cacilhas, a former fishing village, faces Lisbon from across the Tagus River. Its peaceful atmosphere contrasts with the hustle and bustle of the capital, offering a quiet escape for those who take the time to discover it.
Here, time seems to flow differently. Just a few minutes by ferry, you leave behind Lisbon’s vibrant energy to find almost deserted cobblestone streets, café terraces where people linger, and occasional fishermen passing by. Once the city’s industrial heart, with warehouses and factories facing the river, it is now a pleasant promenade where the past still lingers in the worn façades.
The village is well worth the visit. With its timeless charm, breathtaking views of the capital, and the imposing silhouette of Cristo Rei in the background, it has a subtle allure that leaves a lasting impression.