SEville, a poetic stage of Andalusia
Electric elegance
Beneath the golden light, Seville unfolds an architecture blending Mudéjar, Baroque, and Renaissance legacies. The Alcázar with its labyrinthine gardens, the Gothic cathedral watched over by La Giralda, and the flower-filled patios of the Palacio de las Dueñas all whisper the elegance of Andalusian aristocratic heritage.
Unique in its culture and vibrant elegance, Seville is the product of a rich and layered past. Roman, Visigothic, Muslim, then Christian, each civilization has left its mark on this Andalusian city. From this wealth arose an eclectic city, deeply rooted in its traditions yet open to emotion.
Under the dry Andalusian heat, the city pulses with contagious joy. The festive spirit of the streets, lifted by laughter, voices, and the songs of the feria, contrasts with the solemn silence of the recently passed Holy Week. Strolling through the vibrant heart of the city, one might turn a corner lined with orange trees or find cool refuge in an Andalusian patio. The air is rich with jasmine, orange blossoms, incense, warm leather, and fried delicacies. On the terraces of tapas bars, glasses are raised, smiles exchanged, olives shared, and plates of fine ham enjoyed. Here, the generosity of the Sevillanos and the sweetness of life make every moment unforgettable.
Palacio de las Dueñas
Some Must-Sees
The Alcázar Palace and its Azulejos : Located in the Santa Cruz district, it’s impossible to leave Seville without admiring the sublime azulejos of the Alcázar Palace. This 12th-century gem perfectly illustrates the meeting of Mudéjar, Gothic, and Renaissance styles, reflecting the different civilizations that have shaped Andalusia.
Plaza de España : Like a monumental stage framed by majestic arches and colorful mosaics, this lively spot is where the Andalusian soul truly comes alive. Flamenco artists often perform here, bringing the square to life.
Seville Cathedral : A must-visit for its Gothic grandeur and especially for the spectacular panoramic view from La Giralda, its iconic tower, overlooking the entire city.
Casa de Pilatos : The residence of the Marquis of Tarifa blends Mudéjar, Gothic, and Greco-Roman influences within a setting of flower-filled patios and colorful azulejos.
Palacio de las Dueñas : The historic home of the Alba family, this palace embodies Andalusian elegance and charm through the centuries. Its peaceful patios, adorned with orange trees and vibrant azulejos, offer a true haven in the heart of the city.
Metropol Parasol, a breath of contemporary air : Nicknamed "Las Setas" (The Mushrooms), this modern monument contrasts strikingly with the city’s historical heritage, offering a space where art, shadow, and light mingle.
Museum of Fine Arts of Seville : Housed in a 17th-century former convent in the Museo district, this museum is a must for art lovers. It holds a rich collection of major works from the Andalusian Baroque school, featuring masters such as Murillo, Zurbarán, Velázquez, and El Greco.
Patio of Museum of Fine Arts in Seville.
Francisco de Zurbarán, Museum of Fine Arts of Seville.
The Andalusian Contemporary Art Center (CAAC) : Located in the former monastery of La Cartuja in Seville, this cultural space is dedicated to modern and contemporary art.
The Collectors’ Market at Plaza del Cabildo : Every Sunday morning, this charming semi-circular square in the Arenal district transforms into a true open-air museum. Here you’ll find a variety of objects: rare stamps, historic coins, medals, minerals, as well as vintage postcards and photographs.
La Maestranza : Seville’s bullring is one of the most famous and oldest in Spain, dating back to the 18th century. Situated in the heart of the city, it embodies Andalusian bullfighting tradition. The site also houses a museum tracing the history of bullfighting.
Finally... Wander through the city’s various neighborhoods : Santa Cruz, Triana, La Macarena, El Museo, and stroll along the banks of the Guadalquivir River.
feria de abril
The Feria de Abril transforms Seville into a vibrant burst of colors and rhythms. Many come from far away to experience it (myself included)! The festival usually lasts a week, starting about 12 to 14 days after Easter Week, often in late April or early May depending on the year.
Everywhere, people dance the sevillanas to the sound of guitars, dressed in traditional costumes. Women wear stunning flamenco dresses, often decorated with polka dots, ruffles, and colorful patterns, their hair elegantly styled with flowers, peinetas (ornamental combs), and mantillas. Men don sharp three-piece suits, while children proudly parade in adorable mini Andalusian outfits!
Along the pathways and throughout the city, horses and traditional carriages gracefully parade. The casetas, long private tents striped in red, green, and white, line the orange earth, creating a warm and lively setting. Inside, people enjoy tapas while sipping the traditional rebujito, a refreshing mix of Manzanilla wine and Sprite.
Access to these casetas is by invitation only, making each entry a true privilege, a close intimate immersion into Andalusian festivity and warmth. I have rarely seen so many joyful people gathered in one place. The Feria de Abril culminates in a grand fireworks display near the Puente de San Telmo bridge.
TRADITION AND TAUROMACHY PASSION
The bullfighting during Seville’s Feria de Abril is truly special, one of the most prestigious and eagerly awaited moments of the bullfighting season in Spain. The events take place at the Plaza de Toros de la Real Maestranza, painted in yellow and white. It is one of the country’s most iconic arenas. The quality of the bullfighters and bulls is exceptional: only the greatest names are invited to Seville for this occasion.
I didn’t attend the bullfight, but I truly enjoyed experiencing the atmosphere and admiring the traditional costumes. The toreros enter the ring dressed in their trajes de luces “suits of lights” or chaquetillas richly embroidered with gold and silver threads, braids, floral and arabesque motifs. Their proud bearing and precise gestures are an integral part of the spectacle.
It is a major social and cultural event, naturally often controversial... For Sevillians, bullfighting during the feria is a moment of elegance, tradition, and passion. Spectators come with family or friends, dressed impeccably : elegant dresses, three-piece suits, hats… It’s as much about seeing and being seen as it is about the fight itself. And after the corrida, the nearby tapas bars fill up for a final convivial moment.
Poster specially created for the Seville Feria bullfight.
In black, the alguacil, the figure responsible for opening the bullfight, and in a gold costume, a picador.
Toreros wearing the chaquetilla; they are holding a montera, the traditional black headpiece, as well as a ceremonial cape.
Casa de Pilatos: A Fusion of Mudéjar, Gothic, Renaissance & Classical Elegance
Nestled in the heart of Seville, Casa de Pilatos is a stunning architectural gem blending Mudéjar, Gothic, Renaissance, and a hint of Greco-Roman inspiration. This 16th century Andalusian palace, commissioned by Pedro Enríquez de Quiñones and his wife Catalina de Rivera and completed by their son Fadrique, evokes a dreamlike fusion of Italy and the Orient. Its name references the house of Pontius Pilate, which Fadrique sought to replicate.
Visitors are captivated by the lush gardens, filled with the gentle, soothing sound of fountains. Bougainvillea cascades in vivid bursts, while the scent of bright fuchsia roses fills the spring air.
Azulejo mosaics cover the walls in vibrant blues, greens, and ochres, recalling both ancient Greek palaces and Moorish influences. Classic sculptures watch from the shadows of the galleries, framed by blonde stone, glossy tiles, and walls in deep red and saffron yellow that capture the light beautifully.
Inside, long corridors adorned with painted ceilings, marble columns, carved wooden doors, and intimate chapels enhance the aristocratic charm of this residence, still home to the Medinaceli family today.
FOOD IN SEVILLE
In Seville, eating is a joyful and social ritual! You can savor fried seafood like crispy puntillitas, marinated boquerones, golden chocos, or huevos de choco (cuttlefish eggs), not to mention grilled octopus “a la plancha” and mojama, a dried tuna with an intense flavor. Red tuna, a true Andalusian pride, is caught using ancestral methods in the Strait of Gibraltar, offering exceptionally high-quality meat.
You can’t miss the hand-sliced jamón ibérico, sometimes served in a cone, or montaditos to share as appetizers. All of this pairs perfectly with a fresh half-pint or a glass of Fino, a dry and light white wine iconic to Seville and the Jerez region.
To dive into the local atmosphere, head to covered markets like Mercado de Triana or Mercado de Feria, where stalls overflow with authentic Andalusian products.
El Rinconcillo
El Rinconcillo : A true institution in Seville. Founded in 1670, it is the oldest tavern in the city. The walls are covered with azulejos, hanging hams, wooden barrels, and lively waiters in black aprons. You order standing at the counter, sometimes even directly from the slate menu, traditional Andalusian tapas like espinacas con garbanzos (spinach with chickpeas), jamón ibérico, tortilla, bacalao (cod)...
Casa Morales : Opened in 1850, Casa Morales is another emblematic spot in Seville, just a stone’s throw from the cathedral. You’ll notice huge terracotta jars lined up inside.
Bodega Dos de Mayo : A Sevillian classic with charming decor, not far from the Museum of Fine Arts. The menu is varied, the food is good, and the prices are affordable. Try the solomillo al whisky (pork tenderloin) or revuelto de bacalao (scrambled eggs with cod).
Bar la Almadraba : Nestled inside the Mercado de Feria, this counter pays homage to the traditional red tuna fishing near Cádiz. You can taste delicious salted fish products like mojama (dried tuna), ventresca (tuna belly), as well as artisanal canned goods.
Bar Garlochí : An unusual cocktail bar in the heart of Seville, decorated like a baroque chapel with candles, virgins, incense, and red velvet creating a mystical and kitsch atmosphere. People come for the unique ambiance... and for the legendary “Agua de Sevilla” cocktail.
Patisserie La Campana : A century-old institution in Seville where time seems to have stood still. Under its golden moldings and vintage display cases, you can savor tocino de cielo, an Andalusian dessert of divine richness: a silky flan made only from egg yolks and sugar.
At the counter of La Almadraba, in the Mercado de Feria, you can taste the different house-cured fish specialties, such as mojama.
Souvenirs from Seville
To take a piece of Seville home with you, a fragrance, a color, a hint of history, or a touch of craftsmanship, here are some authentic and charming shops where you can find the city’s finest souvenirs.
Populart: Populart offers a beautiful selection of antique ceramics, faience tiles (azulejos), pottery, religious engravings, and folkloric and artisanal objects. Each piece has its own story. Many come from ruined buildings across the region and can be centuries old. It’s the perfect place to discover authentic items, far from the usual tourist souvenirs. The staff provides advice that is both passionate and attentive.
Naturally, Aromas of Seville: a fragrant gem in the heart of the city, tucked behind a beautiful period storefront. Here you can explore natural perfumes crafted from carefully selected essences, combining artisanal know-how with scents like jasmine and orange blossom, all complemented by a warm and attentive welcome.
Juan Foronda / Artesanía Textil: two shops specializing in fans, shawls, mantillas, flamenco accessories, and other handcrafted items. Why not bring home a hand-painted fan as a souvenir? It’s both a small work of art and a practical accessory to stay cool in the heat, the perfect keepsake from Seville.